Tag Archives: Foodie

The Godmother

Foodie Friday is a bit somber this week since our topic today is the passing of Marcella Hazan.

Marcella: will she peel my beans too?

(Photo credit: kattebelletje)

You might not be familiar with the name but I can assure you that you are familiar with the influence she has had in the food world.  Her obituary in The Times was entitled “Changed The Way Americans Cook Italian Food” and that may be an understatement.  Let me explain and point out a few things we can take away from her that might just apply to your business.

The comparison is often made between Marcella and Julia Child.  What Julia did for French food in this country, Marcella did for Italian.  I think that’s where the similarities end.  Julia was formally trained, Marcella was trained as a biologist, not a cook.  Julia was an American who went to Paris while Marcella was an Italian immigrant to this country.  Much of the food Julia prepares is complex; Marcella’s food is very simple but, as she wrote,

Simple doesn’t mean easy. I can describe simple cooking thus: Cooking that is stripped all the way down to those procedures and those ingredients indispensable in enunciating the sincere flavor intentions of a dish.

Of the hundred or more cookbooks I own, Marcella’s are the ones that are dog-eared and stained from much use.  If you want to learn to cook, begin with “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking” which is her first two books in one volume.  In its introduction, she wrote the following about Italian food:

It is not the created, not to speak of “creative,” cooking of restaurant chefs.  It is the cooking that spans remembered history…There is no such thing as Italian haute cuisine because there are no high or low roads in Italian cooking.  All roads lead to the home, to la cucina di casa – the only one that deserves to be called Italian cooking.

What business lessons does Marcella teach us?  First, you can hear how she is confident in her positions and speaks with authority.  Second, she prefers the simple solution rather than the overly complex.  Third, she always seems to cook on a stove rather than in an oven – it’s so the cook can pay better attention to the food.  Fourth, she emphasizes great ingredients and bringing out the best from them.  Interpret that as a management goal with your team as the ingredients!

Finally,  as you read in the last quote, she always emphasized authenticity.  She disdained the use of microwave ovens to speed up cooking not because she was a Luddite but because the texture and flavor of the product was altered.   How many businesses suffer because they cut a corner or speed up a process only to denigrate their product?

Marcella was the Godmother of Italian cooking.  She changed how we eat and her lessons can change how we conduct business.  Does that make sense?

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Filed under food, Thinking Aloud

Bad Menus

Foodie Friday!  Maybe you’ve seen one of the many shows that fall into what I’ll call the “restaurant rehab” genre.

Dinner menu from Water St./ Beaver St. locatio...

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

You know what I mean.  A restaurant is failing, a celebrity chef comes in, makes changes and voilà, business saved.  Inevitably, the chef changes the decor, makes sure the place is clean (and some are so disgusting you wonder why the health department hasn’t shut them down), savages the owner for faulty purchasing practices (a walk-in full of rotting food is a good sign you’re buying too much for what you’re using!), and, most importantly, goes over the menu and eats the food.

I think I can safely say, without it being too much of a spoiler, that in each and every case the food sucks.  You might think that bad food is the reason these places are having problems.  I think the bad food is a symptom, not the disease.  The real problem is a bad menu and maybe that’s a phenomenon that could cause problems with your business too.  Let me explain.

Nearly every place that’s been on one of these shows has a menu that’s similar in scope to an encyclopedia.  They have way too many items.  The chef thinks that they’re providing a service by letting diners order..well…almost anything.  The reality is that they setting the business up for problems.  More dishes requires more varied ingredients (the full refrigerator of rotting food).  Cooking them requires more staff training and quality control is harder.  After all, if a cook is making a dish once a week, they’re far more likely to screw it up than if they cook it hourly every night.  Finally, it confuses your patrons.  It’s stressful wondering which choice is great and which items aren’t.

Fewer choices executed perfectly is usually the solution on the TV shows and it is in most businesses and products too.  Think about Word, the widely used word processing program.  Microsoft filled it with features and, to be sure users would see them, put lots of buttons on the menu bar.  That was confusing and very few users cared about the new features each version brought so they didn’t pay to upgrade.  I know people who are still happily using Word 2003.

This notion goes as far back as Henry Ford.  You could get any color car you wanted as long as it was black.  Think of Apple – there is limited customization possible with their phone operating system but that’s just fine for most users and the products are high-quality.

We all want to give consumers choice.  What we don’t want to do is to confuse them or to offer an inferior product.  Just as the restaurants found out, that’s a recipe for failure.  Fewer options perfectly executed is my take.  What’s yours?

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Filed under Consulting, food

The Name On The Door

Today’s Foodie Friday Fun is about the business side of food, a restaurant, so if you’re here today for cooking tips I apologize. You probably know chef Gordon Ramsay from his incessant TV appearances and, if so, you’re aware of his obsession with quality and high standards. What’s happened here in New York to his Gordon Ramsay at The London restaurant is a great lesson for any business.

Ramsay at BBC Gardeners' World Live 2008

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The restaurant opened in 2006 and soon thereafter won two Michelin stars. For any of you non-foodies, suffice it to say that there are currently only 14 places in NY that are two or three stars – they’re hard to win.  Unlike the Zagat ratings, these are all done by professional inspectors who are totally anonymous.  That was 2008.  In 2009 Ramsay sold the restaurant to the hotel (he needed the money – that’s another story) and licensed his name as part of the deal.

Fast forward.  The new guide came out and both stars are gone.  In a year (he had the two stars last year).  That’s pretty unheard of and shows a significant decline in quality and standards.  The chef’s response (via Eater)?

“Gordon Ramsay is not involved in the day-to-day running of the restaurants or kitchens, as this is a licensing agreement, but is in communication regarding updates and changes at the restaurant.”

In other words, although my name is on the door I’m not involved.   We heard something similar out of Donald Trump when the Trump casinos went bankrupt (how the heck do you lose money running a casino?!?!):

“Other than the fact that it has my name on it – which I’m not thrilled about – I have nothing to do with the company.”

I’ve done licensing agreements and one thing that is always a part of them are the product standards.  Since it’s your name, you always have the right to examine the product and if it’s not up to your standards, to demand that it’s fixed or not sold.  You might shrug and say well, that’s the restaurant business but it’s your business as well.  If the quality of whatever product or service you’re providing – even through a third party – isn’t up to snuff, it’s your name and reputation, not the third party’s.  Given that many of Ramsay’s other places – where he is more hands-on apparently – have held on to their stars – his place in London has three! – it’s clearly not that the chef has lost his touch.  It that he was out of touch with the New York place.

If your name is on the product, you need to be involved and maintain the standards that warranted your name on it in the first place.  When people knock on your door, they see you, not the landlord, not the builder, not the cleaning crew, not even the people who actually do the work.  You.  I’m all for meeting the customer expectations that my name engenders.  Aren’t we all?

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Filed under food, Helpful Hints