Category Archives: food

The Godmother

Foodie Friday is a bit somber this week since our topic today is the passing of Marcella Hazan.

Marcella: will she peel my beans too?

(Photo credit: kattebelletje)

You might not be familiar with the name but I can assure you that you are familiar with the influence she has had in the food world.  Her obituary in The Times was entitled “Changed The Way Americans Cook Italian Food” and that may be an understatement.  Let me explain and point out a few things we can take away from her that might just apply to your business.

The comparison is often made between Marcella and Julia Child.  What Julia did for French food in this country, Marcella did for Italian.  I think that’s where the similarities end.  Julia was formally trained, Marcella was trained as a biologist, not a cook.  Julia was an American who went to Paris while Marcella was an Italian immigrant to this country.  Much of the food Julia prepares is complex; Marcella’s food is very simple but, as she wrote,

Simple doesn’t mean easy. I can describe simple cooking thus: Cooking that is stripped all the way down to those procedures and those ingredients indispensable in enunciating the sincere flavor intentions of a dish.

Of the hundred or more cookbooks I own, Marcella’s are the ones that are dog-eared and stained from much use.  If you want to learn to cook, begin with “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking” which is her first two books in one volume.  In its introduction, she wrote the following about Italian food:

It is not the created, not to speak of “creative,” cooking of restaurant chefs.  It is the cooking that spans remembered history…There is no such thing as Italian haute cuisine because there are no high or low roads in Italian cooking.  All roads lead to the home, to la cucina di casa – the only one that deserves to be called Italian cooking.

What business lessons does Marcella teach us?  First, you can hear how she is confident in her positions and speaks with authority.  Second, she prefers the simple solution rather than the overly complex.  Third, she always seems to cook on a stove rather than in an oven – it’s so the cook can pay better attention to the food.  Fourth, she emphasizes great ingredients and bringing out the best from them.  Interpret that as a management goal with your team as the ingredients!

Finally,  as you read in the last quote, she always emphasized authenticity.  She disdained the use of microwave ovens to speed up cooking not because she was a Luddite but because the texture and flavor of the product was altered.   How many businesses suffer because they cut a corner or speed up a process only to denigrate their product?

Marcella was the Godmother of Italian cooking.  She changed how we eat and her lessons can change how we conduct business.  Does that make sense?

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Filed under food, Thinking Aloud

Bad Menus

Foodie Friday!  Maybe you’ve seen one of the many shows that fall into what I’ll call the “restaurant rehab” genre.

Dinner menu from Water St./ Beaver St. locatio...

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

You know what I mean.  A restaurant is failing, a celebrity chef comes in, makes changes and voilà, business saved.  Inevitably, the chef changes the decor, makes sure the place is clean (and some are so disgusting you wonder why the health department hasn’t shut them down), savages the owner for faulty purchasing practices (a walk-in full of rotting food is a good sign you’re buying too much for what you’re using!), and, most importantly, goes over the menu and eats the food.

I think I can safely say, without it being too much of a spoiler, that in each and every case the food sucks.  You might think that bad food is the reason these places are having problems.  I think the bad food is a symptom, not the disease.  The real problem is a bad menu and maybe that’s a phenomenon that could cause problems with your business too.  Let me explain.

Nearly every place that’s been on one of these shows has a menu that’s similar in scope to an encyclopedia.  They have way too many items.  The chef thinks that they’re providing a service by letting diners order..well…almost anything.  The reality is that they setting the business up for problems.  More dishes requires more varied ingredients (the full refrigerator of rotting food).  Cooking them requires more staff training and quality control is harder.  After all, if a cook is making a dish once a week, they’re far more likely to screw it up than if they cook it hourly every night.  Finally, it confuses your patrons.  It’s stressful wondering which choice is great and which items aren’t.

Fewer choices executed perfectly is usually the solution on the TV shows and it is in most businesses and products too.  Think about Word, the widely used word processing program.  Microsoft filled it with features and, to be sure users would see them, put lots of buttons on the menu bar.  That was confusing and very few users cared about the new features each version brought so they didn’t pay to upgrade.  I know people who are still happily using Word 2003.

This notion goes as far back as Henry Ford.  You could get any color car you wanted as long as it was black.  Think of Apple – there is limited customization possible with their phone operating system but that’s just fine for most users and the products are high-quality.

We all want to give consumers choice.  What we don’t want to do is to confuse them or to offer an inferior product.  Just as the restaurants found out, that’s a recipe for failure.  Fewer options perfectly executed is my take.  What’s yours?

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Filed under Consulting, food

No Good Deed…

English: McDonalds' sign in Harlem.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Foodie Friday fun time, and this week it’s fast food. Oh, sorry – Quick Service Restaurants. No, this isn’t going to be a polemic on the horrors of what’s served in many of these places. Instead, I’d like to focus for a moment on what the category leader has announced and some of the responses to it.

I find it instructive and you might as well. You might be aware the McDonald’s is going to give away books as toys with their Happy Meals which are targeted to kids.  The books will replace the usual toy and I think giving away 20,000,000 books instead of a like number of toys is a good thing.  However, that’s where much of the positive energy stops.  As USA Today reported:

…this new series of four kids books is hardly comprised of Caldecott Medal winners. Rather, the four books are based on McDonald’s own animated animals, including a goat, ant, dodo bird and, yes, a dinosaur.

Now McDonald’s had given out books at least 15 times previously but this is the first time the books have been created by their ad agency.  The cynics would say that since the books try to tell the kids about healthy eating from characters associated with the McDonald’s brand, kids might think McDonald’s is healthy food.  NY Times food writer Mark Bittman asked this:

If McDonald’s wanted to be on the right side of history, it would announce something like this: ‘Starting tomorrow, we’re not offering soda with Happy Meals except by specific request. And starting Jan. 1, at every McDonald’s, we’ll be offering a small burger with a big salad for the price of a burger and fries to anyone who asks for it; we’re also adding a chopped salad McWrap. We challenge our competitors to follow us in making fast food as healthful as it is affordable, and we dare our critics to say we’re not changing.

What’s the business point?  We can’t say one thing and appear to do another.  Simple, right?  Maybe to say, but we have to examine the entirety of our activities – both marketing-based and otherwise – to make sure that our words and our actions are aligned.  There are many people who look at everything companies do with a cynical eye and they have the tools and platforms to make their feelings known.  Anything associated with making money is subject to that skeptical review and the above is a good demonstration of how our good intentions can be undercut.

Does that make sense?

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Filed under food, Reality checks